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Sign Company · 7 min read

Window decals, banners, a wall sign: what you can install yourself and what you should not

Some signage is a ten-minute job with a squeegee. Some involves a ladder two stories up, a city permit and a licensed electrician. Here is where the line sits and how to do the easy part well.

Small, flat and within reach: often yes. Lit, heavy or high: no

You can usually install small, flat, non-electrical signage yourself: A-frames, banner stands, hours decals, small window lettering, framed interior posters and vehicle magnets. Anything illuminated, anything mounted high on the building, anything anchored into the facade, and any permanent exterior sign that needs a city permit should go to a professional installer, and the electrical connection to a licensed sign electrician. ADA room signs are a middle case: easy to hang, but with placement rules that are easy to get wrong.

At our FASTSIGNS center near Fair Park, installation is one of the services we provide, but we also produce a lot of signage that the customer puts up. Neither choice is wrong. The goal of this guide is to help you pick the right one for each piece and do the do-it-yourself part well, without paying a professional for the jobs that never needed one or saving money on the jobs that did.

Jobs a careful owner can usually handle

These items are designed to be placed or applied without tools beyond a squeegee, a tape measure and a level. The risk is mostly cosmetic: a crooked decal or a banner that sags. If you are comfortable with that risk, they are reasonable to do yourself.

A simple test helps for anything not on this list. Ask three questions: does it need power, does it need a ladder taller than a step stool, and does it need holes in a wall you do not own? One yes means you should at least get a professional opinion. Two or more means hire it out.

  • A-frames, sidewalk signs and retractable banner stands
  • Small vinyl lettering such as hours, phone number and payment logos on a door
  • Vehicle magnets on a clean, flat steel panel
  • Framed posters, menu inserts and changeable displays indoors
  • Small adhesive interior signs on smooth, clean walls
  • Yard signs, where your property and local rules allow them

Getting a decal on straight and bubble-free

Most decal problems come from rushing. Clean the glass thoroughly and let it dry; dust and residue under the vinyl show forever. Work on a mild day out of direct sun if you can, because hot glass and cold glass both make vinyl harder to handle. Measure from a fixed edge such as the door frame, not from the eye, and mark the position on the outside of the glass with a few pieces of painter's tape.

Use the hinge method for anything larger than your hand. Tape the decal in position along its top edge, flip it up, peel the backing away from the top down while holding the decal off the glass, then lower it and squeegee from the center outward in overlapping strokes. Peel the transfer tape back slowly at a sharp angle. A small bubble can usually be pressed out toward the nearest edge.

Large window graphics are a different story. A full storefront of perforated film or a wall mural needs seams that line up across panels, and one bad panel means reprinting it. Those are the jobs where a professional install costs less than a second print run.

Window signs in Dallas come with limits

Before you cover the glass, check the rules. The City of Dallas sign page summarizes the provisions for business zoning districts this way: window signs may cover a maximum effective area of 15 percent of the window or glass door, they must sit in the bottom third of the window, and words taller than four inches count toward the word limit for that facade. Other districts and special sign districts can have their own rules, so confirm what applies to your address.

Landlords often add their own window criteria on top of the city's. Read the signage section of your lease before you order, not after the decal is on the glass.

Where do-it-yourself stops: power, height and the wall itself

Three things move a sign out of DIY territory. The first is electricity. The City of Dallas says electrical sign installation requires a registered electrical or sign electrical contractor, and the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation describes sign electrical work as including installing, connecting and reconnecting the wiring and equipment used with signs and LEDs. That is licensed work, full stop. FASTSIGNS centers do not perform it either; the connection on our illuminated projects is made by a licensed contractor.

The second is height. Working from a ladder or lift above a sidewalk while handling a large, heavy panel is how people get hurt and signs get dropped. Our installers handle the jobs that need ladders, lifts and specialized tools, and that is exactly the work they are equipped for.

The third is the wall. Drilling into brick, stucco or an insulated finish system the wrong way lets water into the building, and a sign anchored into the wrong material can pull loose in a storm. If the building is not yours, the landlord will also care who drilled those holes.

A permit does not depend on who holds the drill

Owners sometimes assume that putting up a sign themselves avoids the permit. It does not. The City of Dallas requires a permit for new or re-faced signs over 20 square feet of effective area, over eight feet tall, or illuminated, and it states that a contractor must be registered before any sign permit can be issued. A permanent exterior sign that crosses those lines needs a registered contractor and a permit regardless of who mounts it.

Unpermitted signs can be ordered removed, and the cost of taking one down and doing it properly is always higher than doing it properly the first time.

There is a practical side as well. A permitted sign comes with drawings that show how it is built and attached, which is what a landlord, a future tenant or an insurance adjuster will want to see if the sign is ever damaged or has to come down. A sign that went up on a Saturday with no paperwork leaves you without any of that, and the questions tend to arrive at the worst possible moment.

ADA room signs: easy to hang, easy to hang wrong

Signs that identify permanent rooms and spaces, such as restrooms, room numbers and room names, carry accessibility requirements. The U.S. Access Board's guide to the ADA Standards explains that these signs need raised characters and braille, mounted so the tactile characters are between 48 and 60 inches above the floor, and at single doors placed alongside the door on the latch side. The characters and background need a non-glare finish and strong light-on-dark or dark-on-light contrast.

The same guide lists signs that do not need to meet those requirements, including temporary signs posted for seven days or less, building directories, and company names and logos. If you are mounting compliant room signs yourself, measure twice and follow the placement rules exactly; a correct sign on the wrong side of the door is still a problem.

Trucks and vans: magnets yes, wraps no

Vehicle magnets are one of the easiest signs to handle yourself, and that is their point: we recommend magnetic signs as removable branding for shared vehicles or part-time business use. Put them only on flat steel panels, never over a body line, trim or a curve, and make sure both the panel and the back of the magnet are clean and dry first. Take them off every so often to clean underneath and let the paint breathe, and store them flat.

Wraps, partial wraps and large decals are a different skill. Vinyl has to be stretched around curves, door handles and seams, then trimmed on the vehicle without cutting the paint. A trained installer aligns the graphics across panels and smooths the film for a bubble-free finish, and that is exactly the part an amateur install gets wrong. A poor wrap lifts at the edges and looks worse than no graphics at all.

Banners: hang them so they survive the wind

A banner is the most common do-it-yourself sign and the one that fails most visibly. Use every grommet, tie it tight at all corners and along the edges, and use bungee ties or springs rather than rigid rope for outdoor banners so the fabric can flex. A banner that flaps loose tears at the grommets within days. Before you hang one on the outside of a Dallas storefront, check whether it is allowed at your location; the city's sign page treats signs that temporarily supplement permanent signs as special purpose signs, prohibited unless a special provision sign district or planned development district authorizes them.

For events, venues and trade shows, banners are usually welcome, and our guide on how fast event banners and signs can be made covers that side.

Splitting the work with us

Many projects mix both approaches. We produce the A-frames, hours decals and banner stands for you to place, and our team installs the building sign, the large window graphics and the lobby wall sign. Tell us which pieces you want to handle and we will produce them with your installation in mind, such as lettering pre-spaced on transfer tape where that suits the job.

If you are hiring for the larger pieces, use our list of questions to ask a sign company before hiring, and before you design anything you plan to install yourself, look at the sign mistakes that cost businesses customers. Quotes are free, and we are open Monday through Friday from 8:30 to 5:00.

Questions people ask me

Can I install my own illuminated sign if I am handy?

Not the electrical part. In Dallas, electrical sign installation requires a registered electrical or sign electrical contractor, and the wiring is licensed work under the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation. Mounting a heavy lit sign at height is also a job for an equipped installer.

How much of my storefront window can I cover with graphics in Dallas?

The City of Dallas summary for business zoning districts limits window signs to 15 percent of the window or glass door, placed in the bottom third of the window. Other districts and your lease can add rules. Confirm what applies to your address before ordering.

How do I remove old vinyl lettering from glass?

Warm the vinyl gently with a hair dryer, lift an edge with a plastic scraper and peel slowly at a low angle. Clean the remaining adhesive with a cleaner that is safe for glass and the surrounding frame. Avoid metal blades on tinted or coated glass.

Do I need a permit for a sign I install myself?

Yes, if the sign crosses the city's thresholds. In Dallas, new or re-faced signs over 20 square feet, over eight feet tall, or illuminated need a permit, and only a registered contractor can obtain one. Installing it yourself does not change that.

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