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Plumbing · 7 min read

Flushable wipes, hot water and grease, and other plumbing myths that end in a repair bill

Most of the expensive plumbing calls I see started with something that sounded reasonable. Here are the myths and habits behind them, and what to do instead.

The myths behind most avoidable repairs

The plumbing myths that cost homeowners the most are that flushable wipes are safe to flush, that hot water washes grease away, that chemical drain openers are a fix, that a small drip is not worth the trouble, and that a drain that clears after cleaning has been solved. Close behind are two habits: never maintaining the water heater and not knowing where the main water shutoff is. Each of these turns a small, cheap problem into a large one.

None of this comes from carelessness. These ideas get repeated because they sound sensible, and some of them come from product labels. But I see their results regularly at 1-800 Plumber +Air, and almost all of them are avoidable once you know the facts.

Myth: if the package says flushable, it is safe to flush

This is the one I would most like to retire. A wipe can make it out of the toilet bowl and still cause trouble further down. The North Texas Municipal Water District's Defend Your Drains guidance is direct about it: so-called flushable wipes do not break down the way toilet paper does, so they clog pipes. At the utility level, the district says wet wipes catch in pumps and twist into tight wads that can shut equipment down.

In a house, the problem shows up in the main sewer line, especially an older one with rough interior walls, roots or low spots where wipes can snag and collect everything that comes after them. The district's rule is easy to remember: flush only the three Ps, pee, poop and paper. Everything else, including wipes, paper towels, cotton swabs and feminine products, belongs in the trash.

Myth: hot water and dish soap carry grease away

Hot water makes grease liquid for a moment, which is why the myth feels true. It does not stay that way. The water district notes that fats, oils and grease still cool and harden in plumbing and sewer pipes even when they go down with hot water, and that dairy such as milk and butter can solidify further down the line and restrict flow.

The City of Dallas Water Utilities gives the practical alternative: pour grease into a sealable container, freeze it and put it in the trash when the container is full, and wipe greasy dishes with a paper towel before washing. The city also points out that improper grease disposal can block both city sewer lines and homeowner pipes, leading to property damage and foul odors. The same goes for the garbage disposal: food scraps sent down it can make grease blockages worse, so scrape plates into the trash first.

Myth: a bottle of drain opener is the fix

Chemical drain openers promise a lot. In my experience they rarely clear a clog completely, especially a hair or grease clog, and what they leave behind is a pipe full of caustic liquid. In older cast iron or galvanized pipe, that is not a kindness. And if the chemical does not work, whoever opens the line next is working with a hazard.

A plunger, a hair-removal strip, cleaning the trap under the sink or a hand auger will clear most single-fixture clogs without any of those risks. My guide on clearing a clogged drain yourself walks through each one, along with the signs that tell you to stop and call.

Myth: if the cleaning worked, the problem is solved

A drain that clears after cleaning is good news for today. A drain that needs clearing again a few months later is telling you something about the pipe. Recurring clogs in the same line, slow drains in several fixtures at once and gurgling toilets usually mean the main line has a sag, roots, a crack or heavy buildup that catches debris. Paying for cleaning after cleaning on a line that has structurally failed is one of the most expensive habits I see, because each visit is cheap and the total is not.

The fix is to look before paying for the next cleaning. A camera inspection shows the condition of the pipe and whether a repair, a replacement or simply better habits is the answer. In older homes with original pipe, my guide on what a failing cast iron sewer line means explains what the camera usually finds and what the options are.

If you are dealing with a backup right now, we answer around the clock and do not up-charge for nights, weekends or holidays.

Myth: a small drip is not worth the trouble

A drip feels like a nuisance, not a cost. The numbers say otherwise. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's WaterSense program estimates that a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons a year, and that fixing easily corrected household leaks can save homeowners about 10 percent on their water bills.

The same goes for a running toilet, which is often the biggest silent leak in a house. WaterSense suggests a simple dye test: put a few drops of food coloring in the tank and wait. If color shows in the bowl within ten minutes, the flapper is leaking. That repair costs very little, and you can often do it yourself.

Myth: you would know if you had a leak

Some leaks are loud. Many are not. A leak in a supply line under a slab or inside a wall can run for months before it shows up as a warm spot on the floor, damp flooring, a musty smell or a bill that keeps climbing. WaterSense estimates that household leaks waste more than 9,300 gallons in the average home each year.

Your water meter is the quickest way to know. With every fixture off, a moving meter or spinning leak indicator means water is going somewhere. My guide on the signs of a slab leak covers the full meter test and what to rule out before calling.

Myth: the water heater takes care of itself

Water heaters are easy to forget because they sit in a closet, the attic or the garage and work quietly until they do not. Sediment builds up at the bottom of a tank over time, making it work harder and rumble, and eventually contributing to failure. Flushing it once a year is a small job that helps it last.

Neglect shows up in other ways too. The relief valve that protects the tank from excess pressure is rarely tested, the drain pan under an attic heater fills with dust and debris, and supply connections corrode quietly until they drip. A yearly look catches all of these. So does paying attention to the signs of a tired heater: rust-colored hot water, rumbling and popping, a pilot that will not stay lit, or water around the base. Turning the thermostat up to compensate for a heater that is struggling is a common mistake, because it raises the scald risk without fixing the cause. If your heater is getting old and you are weighing your options, my guide on what moves the price of a water heater replacement will help you read a quote.

The mistake that turns a leak into a flood

When a pipe bursts, the minutes between finding the water and stopping it decide how much damage you have. Too many homeowners spend those minutes searching for the main shutoff valve. Find yours today. The City of Dallas Water Utilities notes that the private shutoff valve is often near an outside faucet close to the house, that homes with in-ground irrigation may have it near the irrigation valves, and that older homes may have it buried in the ground with a small L-shaped iron handle that stops the flow when turned perpendicular to the pipe.

Once you find it, make sure it turns. Old valves seize, and you do not want to learn that during an emergency. While you are at it, check the small shutoff valves under sinks and behind toilets. If any of them are stuck or weeping, replacing them is a quick job, and a smart shutoff valve that closes the main supply when it senses a leak is worth considering for any house that sits empty for stretches.

The same valve matters before a trip. The city's winter guidance recommends that if a house will be empty for several days, you turn off the water at the private shutoff and drain the outside faucets, so a freeze while you are away does not become a flooded house when you return. A burst pipe in an occupied house is bad; one that runs for a week is far worse. My guide on keeping pipes from freezing in a winter storm covers the rest of the freeze routine, from wrapping exposed pipe to opening cabinet doors.

How we try to keep you out of the next repair

Most of what is on this page is free to follow. When it is time for a professional, we diagnose first, explain what we find and give you options before any work begins. Our stated commitment is never to sell a customer something that is not needed, and work is priced by the job, not the hour. We call ahead to confirm the arrival time, and all of our work is guaranteed.

If you want help staying ahead of problems, our Home Guard membership includes a yearly plumbing safety check, a water heater flush and a hard water test, with priority service. We serve homes across Dallas, the Park Cities and the northern suburbs, and we are always glad to answer a question before it turns into a repair.

Questions people ask me

Are flushable wipes really bad for pipes?

Yes. The North Texas Municipal Water District notes that flushable wipes do not break down like toilet paper and clog pipes. In a home, they tend to snag in the main sewer line, especially older pipe. Put them in the trash.

What should I do with cooking grease?

The City of Dallas recommends pouring grease into a sealable container, freezing it and putting it in the trash when it is full. Wipe greasy pans with a paper towel before washing. Hot water does not keep grease from hardening further down the pipe.

How much water does a dripping faucet waste?

The EPA's WaterSense program estimates that a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons a year. Fixing easily corrected household leaks can save about 10 percent on water bills, according to the same source.

Where is my main water shutoff valve?

The City of Dallas Water Utilities notes that it is often near an outside faucet close to the house, or near the irrigation valves in homes with in-ground sprinklers. Older homes may have a buried valve with a small L-shaped iron handle. Find it and test it before you need it.

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